Aso Oke

History of Aso-Oke

Aso-Oke: The Timeless Heritage of Yoruba Culture

Aso-Oke, a shortened form of Aṣọ Ìlú Òkè—meaning "clothing from the up-country"—is a handwoven textile deeply rooted in Yoruba tradition. Also referred to as Aso-Ofi, it is the iconic attire of the Yoruba people, one of the largest ethnic groups in Nigeria, primarily located in the southwestern region of the country.

Worn during significant celebrations such as chieftaincy titles, traditional weddings, naming ceremonies, and cultural festivals, Aso-Oke is more than just fabric—it is a symbol of prestige and communal identity. Its elegance is especially amplified when worn as Aso-Ebi, a coordinated outfit worn by friends and family to signify unity during ceremonies.

The art of Aso-Oke weaving dates back centuries, particularly flourishing in towns like Iseyin (Oyo State), Ede (Osun State), and Okene (Kogi State). The threads used in crafting these beautiful fabrics are either locally produced or sourced from the northern regions of Nigeria, preserving both heritage and craftsmanship across generations.

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TYPES OF Aso-Oke

  • ETU - STRIPPED DARK BLUE
  • SANYAN -CARTON BROWN WITH WHITE STRIPES
  • ALAARI - CRIMSOM
  • EYA - LACED
  • TAKUNSI - (CLOTH WITH DIFFERENT PATTERN)
  • POPO - ELEPO
  • ALAAGBA
  • LACE
  • CHECK
  • DAMASK
  • PLAIN & PATTERN
  • PRINTS
  • KENTE-OKE
  • BIG & SMALL LOOM
  • SILK
  • COTTON
  • NET
  • METALLIC
  • TAKUNSI
  • PAINTING
  • MONOGRAMMING
  • BIG LOOM
  • NET LACE
  • NET DESIGN
  • ORDINARY LACE
  • DOUBLE WEAVING
  • SUPER NET
  • WIRE TO WIRE

Preparation and Making of Aso-Oke

  • Aso-Oke weaving is a remarkable blend of culture, craftsmanship, and patience. Every strand of this iconic Yoruba fabric is born through a meticulous, time-honored process that begins with nature and ends in art.

  • 1. Planting of Cotton

    The journey of Aso-Oke begins with the planting of cotton—typically during the rainy season, between June and July. After months of nurturing, the cotton is harvested between November and February of the following year. Once gathered, it is stored in barns until it is ready for spinning.

  • 2. Spinning

    Spinning involves separating the cotton seeds from the wool using a bow-like instrument called Orun in Yoruba (also known as a spindle). The wool is then rolled onto the loom—a handcrafted wooden frame made by local carpenters. As the spindle turns, the cotton is gradually thinned into thread, ready for weaving. This is a continuous and delicate process that transforms raw cotton into usable yarn.

  • 3. Sorting

    Cotton naturally attracts dirt and debris, requiring thorough cleaning before it can be used. This step, called sorting, ensures the fibers are clean and smooth. While machines can handle this in some settings, traditional artisans often sort manually—a tedious but necessary task to maintain the cloth’s purity and quality.

  • 4. Patterning

    This stage introduces the soul of Aso-Oke—its intricate patterns and vibrant designs. The patterning process occurs while weaving, using various tools such as: (propeller) (long wheel) (short wheel) and Kikgun (rollers) (strikers) (extender to hold reels) (metallic peg)Reels of cotton are suspended from metallic pegs, allowing the threads to be bundled and shaped into desired designs. Each motion, each strike, each turn adds meaning and identity to the fabric.

  • 5. Weaving

    Weaving is where the magic truly happens. The prepared threads are inserted into the loom through extenders and other tools. The weaver ties the Iro (filler) to their seat, and through a synchronized motion involving foot pedals, wooden pegs, and the Oko (motor), the threads are interlaced with rhythmic precision.

    As the pedals alternate, the cotton opens, allowing the weaver to guide the shuttle (motor) across. With each pass, the striker beats the thread into place, creating a tightly woven strip of fabric. The weaver pulls the cloth toward them using the drawer, and the fabric stretches out beautifully with every movement. The loom fills the air with its signature sound:

    Sakala-si-sakala-sa
    Sakala-si-sakala-sa

    It is a mesmerizing rhythm that brings Aso-Oke to life.

  • Each woven strip of Aso-Oke tells a story—of the land, the hands, and the heritage behind it. From cotton seed to royal fabric, Aso-Oke remains a testament to Yoruba creativity, tradition, and elegance. Different variants exist, distinguished by texture, weave, and occasion, but each one carries the same essence: timeless beauty woven with purpose.
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